About
this Tasting Case:
Every
region has wines that brand it—Austria & Grüner
Veltliner, New Zealand & Sauvignon Blanc, the Finger
Lakes & Riesling—expressions that are inextricably
linked to their terroir. These are the wines that gave them
their start, introducing them to a broad audience and inspiring
the growth of other vines, particularly those with international
reach. They also brought attention to the broad indigenous
populations out there—the numerous native specialties
that make what appear to be one-grape wonders lands of compelling
diversity.
With a grape count of 2,000, Italy is the leading specialist
in diversity. This case celebrates that breadth, covering
its signature wines, international takes, and little-known
indigenous wonders. It is not our intention here to be comprehensive—that’s
simply not possible. But this collection does give a compelling
sense of Italy’s immense range. Barolo—the calling
card—takes its rightful place here, represented by
one of the region’s foremost crus. Hailing from a ripe
vintage and the cellar of a modernist, it decidedly privileges
Nebbiolo’s power over its finesse. Piemonte’s
icon of tradition—Bartolo Mascarello—steps in
on tradition’s behalf, giving us a Dolcetto that’s
far more poised than plush. Tradition also makes its presence
known through our contributors from Montalcino. The 2001
vintage is already a historic one for the region, and Canalicchio
di Sopra gives a textbook reading of both the year and the
appellation. Fuligni delivers a Rosso di Montalcino of impeccable
breeding, a classy cru interpretation.
Sassicaia was the wine that launched a thousand Super-Tuscans,
and we’ve got both its second and third labels here—well-connected
siblings that honor their esteemed pedigree. But the not-so-famous
can be as equally compelling. The ancient Pallagrello Bianco
is an ancient wonder that bears an affinity to the whites
of the Rhône; almost lost to phylloxera, we toast its
recovery herein. Radikon and Movia also revisit the past
to dramatic effect in their provocative and daring work with
Friuli’s Ribolla Gialla. While Moscati d’Asti
may not inspire that kind of contemplation, it’s perfect
in its own way—a sweet and delightful endnote. And
then there’s Dal Forno’s Valpolicella—a
ravishing production that no one can come close to adapting.
This case doesn’t specialize—it provides maximum
exposure to Italy’s sizable corner of the grape kingdom—truly
a country for all wine enthusiasts.
|
