December 3, 2008
Nebbiolo: 6th Annual Master Competition

On November 21st we reported on the Master of Sangiovese, an Italian national competition that sees the participation of Italy’s most talented sommeliers. Equally important and challenging is the Master del Nebbiolo, regarded as the most prestigious competition entirely dedicated to this Italian noble varietal. This year’s edition was held this weekend in the beautiful Villa Sassi, a patrician villa located on the hills just outside the city of Turin.

Organized by the Piedmontese regional chapter of the National Italian Sommelier Association (AIS) the demanding competition began with a morning-long written examination testing candidates on the most famous crus of the Langhe and on the various appellation laws of Nebbiolo-based wines. Questions were varied and included information such as the name of commune for the cru Rabaja, the acidity of the Ghemme DOCG, the crus of Sorì San Lorenzo, what percentage of Nebbiolo is allowed in Valtellina Superiore wines, the exact number of hectares cultivated in the Barolo and Roero DOCGs and what was the first vintage of Monfortino.

With the three finalists selected, the afternoon was dedicated to a public tasting of wines from northern Piemonte, including Gattinara and Ghemme, but also the lesser known Carema, Lessona, Bramaterra, Boca, Fara, Sizzano, Colline Novaresi and Coste della Sesia. In the evening the competition resumed with the final examination testing on practical skills, such as sensory analysis, food and wine menu parings, service and decanting techniques, and mastering a Nebbiolo wine list.

The winner was Matteo Barolo, whose last name befittingly recalls the King of Italian wines, a professional sommelier for the Il Clandestino di Stresa restaurant on Lake Maggiore. Second and third place went to Elsa Guarise and Mario Bevione, both of the Turin AIS chapter. The judging committee was composed of: Roberto Gardini, Head of Competitions for National Sommelier Association, Ivano Antonini, winner of the 2007 edition and this year’s leading Italian sommelier, Fabio Gallo and Mauro Carosso, respectively President of the regional chapter and Delegate of the local chapter of the National Sommelier Association.