December 15, 2008
Bruchi: Italy Should Not Look to Burgundy for Inspiration

The revolutionary proposal of Professor Mario Fregoni, Honorary President of OIV, during the December 1st speech at the Third Annual Sangiovese Symposium—that Italy should consider a new wine appellation system based on one from Burgundy which distinguishes wines by crus and not by varietals—has created quite a controversy.

As it was to be expected much discussion has come out of Professor Fregoni proposal, as various Italian journalists and industry insiders have expressed their views on many of the country’s most popular wine blogs. Even the legendary Giacomo Tachis was reported as having said—some believe in connection with the symposium speech—that in his opinion the entire current Italian appellation system should be abandoned entirely. Some have praised the Professor, others have responded in total disagreement.

Today the report of a response by a government official, Roberto Bruchi, faculty member of the Enology Department of the University of Piacenza and member of the Comitato Nazionale Vini—the nationally appointed wine appellation committee and branch of the Italian Ministry of Agriculture—who responded to Fregoni’s views stating that the Burgundy model should not be followed, as Italy has much more to teach than to copy. “Speaking on behalf of Tuscan producers”, he stated, “I would respond to Prof. Fregoni by saying that there is absolutely no need for Italy to adopt a system based on the Burgundy model. Thanks to our own classification system our most important wine appellations are already well established and appreciated the world over. Our system highlights the singularities, different histories and traditions of our wines and our many territori.” On the Professor’s comment that the recent Montalcino situation may not have happen with a crus-type system in place, Bruchi replied that “the Burgundy model would not have been helpful to the Montalcino producers, who in recent months came out of their predicament by adopting efficient measures and making the best decisions for their territory.”

On the point that too many varietals are used in many of the Italian appellations, Bruchi replied that in his opinion this is not a limitation but a powerful tool, “as our wines are produced to showcase the wealth and legacy of the hundreds of indigenous varietals found in our country—as opposed to France where most wines are produced with 8-10 varietals at most.” He concluded by saying: “so let’s not fall into the mistake of adopting a model that has nothing to do with our own reality and situation. Italy is a wine country that has more to offer and teach, than to imitate or copy from others.”