Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino Cerbaiola:
[Sahl-VEE-oh-nee Cher-BAH-ee-yoh-la ]

Giulio Salvioni is perhaps the most respected Brunello producer of recent years. There is no riserva required at Salvioni ’s La Cerbaiola estate. Why not? Why does this eminent name decline to produce an expression that represents the height of form for its fellow masters of Montalcino? A Riserva would almost be beside the point, given the exceptional quality and intensity that is displayed in Salvioni’s normale.

While many producers struggle to integrate traditional and modern techniques, Salvioni achieves a seamless integration—a blend wherein each enhances the other. Though the grapes receive a traditional extended maceration of 25 to 30 days, they derive from a 3-hectare vineyard in which Salvioni conducts a rigorous, modern-inspired regimen of pruning and yield restriction. The intensity of the protocol is such that production realizes a mere 800 cases—an exceedingly low output. Tradition reasserts its prerogative in the aging period, conducted over a two-year period in Slavonian oak barrels, followed by six to eight months of bottle maturation. While the wine is one of intense concentration, the structure conditions this dense provision, affording it an elegant expression. The first and rarely tasted 1985 vintage will remain outstanding for years to come. However, even products of lesser vintages are almost as powerful as that of significant years.

Salvioni matched his genius with that of Attilio Pagli, who has served as enologist since 1985, the estate’s initial vintage. Pagli’s career commenced at Soldera, where he mentored under esteemed consultant Giulio Gambelli. Some discern a likeness between the style of the two houses, marked by a seemingly inexplicable juxtaposition of concentration and finesse. While Salvioni ranks just below Soldera on the list of most sought-after Brunellos, Salvioni holds the top spot in the cult Brunello genre.