Querciabella
Camartina
[kweh(l)r-chah-behl-lah kah-mah(l)r-tee-nah]
The late Giuseppe Castiglioni set about authoring a Super-Tuscan
success story in 1972—restoring an ancient estate, outfitting
it with state-of-the-art equipment and, over time, establishing
an elite winemaking cadre that includes none other than famed consultant
and Super-Tuscan specialist Giacomo Tachis. While Querciabella’s
story began with its Chianti Classico—one of the region’s
finest expressions and most consistent performers with respect to
both quality and typicity—Castiglioni desired to figure in
a movement that segued directly from an inchoate state into an international
furor. Camartina—the flagship of Querciabella—was Castiglioni’s
first contribution to this dynamic phenomenon.
Camartina continues to be a defining example of the Super-Tuscan
genre, a position that it’s earned, in no small part, due
to Giacomo Tachis’ involvement. Despite the number and eminence
of the names on Tachis’ list (Tignanello, Solaia, Solengo),
Camartina’s always stood out for the consummate value it affords.
Like the other three wines mentioned, Camartina is irresistibly
accessible upon release, yet promises equally riveting rewards if
cellared and experienced over time. It’s also one of the original
Super-Tuscans, debuting on the market in 1981, right behind Solaia
(1979) and Sammarco (1980). Moreover, Camartina shares a special
connection with Sammarco, as both are artisanal, biodynamic productions
of the Chianti Classico zone. If you look at the figures that each
commands, though, Camartina’s on its own. Just take the ’82
Tig, for example. As of this posting (May 2008), it runs approximately
$240. The ’82 Camartina is priced at $79, far below what you’d
expect these complex and articulate ambassadors of the past to be.
The ’82 strikes a particularly refined pose, enigmatically
choosing to go punt-less. It seems to say, if you will, that all
of that pontificating about the punt’s uses (it steadies the
bottle, captures sediment, etc.) is sheer rubbish. No other wine
of such class and pedigree enables you to encounter the past and
present in tandem at such a modest, unassuming cost.
While Sangiovese was the predominant varietal for the greater part
of Camartina’s early career, the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon
has increased gradually over the years, with recent vintages favoring
Cabernet. Some vintages, such as 1999 and 2000, have also included
small percentages of Merlot and Syrah, whereas 2005 was exclusively
Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. The highly sensitive relationship
to vintage conducted by Querciabella has resulted in a wine with
an impeccable record of consistency and an uncanny ability for projecting
hedonism and refinement—a state wherein both virtues seem
to be fully realized yet simultaneously responding to one another’s
modifying influences. While the talent of Tachis and Querciabella
winemaker Guido de Santi and their highly discriminating process
of selection are certainly part of this prodigious success, the
estate’s fundamental integrity also accounts for Camartina’s
unblemished performance history. The wine is produced exclusively
in years that inherently support the flagship’s character,
a state that was not realized in 1989, 1992, 1998, and 2002. In
this respect, it is truly one of the definitive Super-Tuscans—an
expression that has a profound sense of self, as opposed to what
others desire.
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Buy Camartina
Wine: Super-Tuscan
Producer: Querciabella
Varietal(s): Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese (may
also include Merlot, Syrah, & Cabernet Franc)
Region: Toscana
Province: Greve
Commune: Chianti Classico
Vineyard(s): Faule, Montoro, Poggerina
Altitude: 400 meters
Exposure: South-Southwest
Classification: Toscana IGT
First Year: 1981
Case Production: 2,000–3,000 (depending on the vintage)
More Landmark Wines:
Antinori
Tignanello
Antinori
Solaia
Castello dei Rampolla
Sammarco |
